Reading Melinda’s post about her ortolano, green grocer, in Florence, I was inspired to write about mine in Buenos Aires.
Here we call them verdulerias. They are all over the place here, in just about every neighborhood.
On my block there are two verdulerias that I like, depending on what I need. One is right downstairs (well, on my street anyway) and one is around the corner. I mostly go to the one downstairs because the verdulero is just wonderful with me. He helps me learn the Spanish names for the various items and he is patient with me. I never touch the produce, he picks it out for me - and he really knows what he’s doing. I’m always happy with what I get.
He also will sometimes suggest things that are particularly good right now, or steer me away from something that might be just average. He always knows where something came from. If the price of a particular item has inflated a lot (which happens here), he will tell me right away and give me a chance to decide if I really want it (or that much of it).
It’s something I’ve always loved to do. In Seattle there is Pike Place Market which Seattle residents enjoy in the winter and avoid in the tourist-filled summer. Pike Place can get expensive though, so there are also local farmers markets in most Seattle neighborhoods that I found a lot of times to be more affordable (and delicious!) than the supposed “organic” sections in the supermarkets.
I always try to buy produce from markets/ortolani/verdulerias because it’s fresh, in season, (mostly) local, harvested when ripe, rather than supermarket produce that lacks luster and is kind of sad to look at under fluorescent lighting.
There is something romantic and so human about being able to walk a few steps down the street, and make contact with another human being as they personally help me pick out fruits and vegetables.
There is something quite satisfying about coming home with colorful vegetables that still have their dirt-covered roots in tact. Something so natural and real about having fruit that has seeds (read: non-GM) and tons of flavor. (Might I add that the grapefruits here are the possibly best I’ve ever had?)
Since getting over my linguistic shyness that prevented me from going into verdulerias and finally taking advantage of the ready availability of delicious, nourishing produce, my energy level has gone up, my skin is clearer than ever (a side benefit of eating more fruits and vegetables) and I have been more inspired to cook interesting things.
We also have a butcher in the same location (I’m finally over that linguistic fear too and have started going), and across the street there is a panederia, bakery, where one can buy some different kinds of bread and various facturas, pastries. I realize that this way of food shopping is not possible everywhere (at least in most cities in the U.S.) so I feel fortunate, grateful, that I have it right at my fingertips.



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I love the farmer’s markets at this time of year. There is now on every day pretty much near me. We are enjoying berries of all sorts.
I was wondering what is really in season right now in BA? Also I was curious when I was there about how it works at the verduleria. Do you wait for someone to help you, and is it impolite to pick up your own fruits etc.? I notice there are different rules in different countries.
Hola Elizabeth!
Great questions. What’s in season down here is basically the same things that are in season during the winter up there.
There’s a lot of what I would consider butternut squash (here it’s either zapallo or calabaza, I still get those two words confused), and I’m seeing lots of winter broccoli, spinach, leeks, cabbage, chard, mandarins, oranges, grapefruits, potatoes, the apples came in around the fall and are still here…
I hear that the strawberry season in Argentina is actually spring instead of summer. I thought that was interesting.
For the most part it’s just like Italy from what I’ve seen, where you allow the person to help you. In Italy I’ve seen people get practically yelled at for trying to touch the produce, but here once or twice I’ve seen people politely ask the verdulero if it’s okay for them to handle the fruit to see for themselves, and he usually allows them.
But I’d say that for the most part it’s expected that you wait for the verdulero to help you. And I enjoy it. It’s great to have that human contact in such a non-personal age. The guy I go to has a keen awareness of what’s good and what’s not, so I trust him.
P.S. I miss the summer berries of Seattle! There is nothing like walking along the Burke-Gilman trail and picking blackberries.
Thanks Tina,
To me, this is important information..you never know when you will be shopping for food and cooking in an interesting new place, with new ways of doing things.
Happy cooking.
Miss you girl…
E
Such a shame that so many “organic” places are so expensive; local farmers are definitely the way to go if it’s an option…better prices *and* better food
The Pelado is at work, so I can not get la verdad, but we have a region that has a micro climate, and is spring all year round. So this is probably where the strawberries are coming from. I can“t believe how lovely and tasty they are, even in winter. Nothing like the strawberries that arrive from California in Canada.
Wow, I’m going to have to do some searching for more information on that region!
Now is about the time that strawberries are in seasons in Washington State. I have fond memories of the strawberry festival on Vashon island, and going to strawberry patches (fields?) to pick them, take them home and put them over vanilla ice cream.
God, I really miss the Pike Street Market. I used to go there almost every Saturday while I lived there, and sample the jellies, buy fresh donuts, and argue with Chinese women about how much flowers are supposed to cost. I have to say, I agree with you: the verdulerias in Buenos Aires are my connection to nature and the world, and I really love the personal attention they’re willing to give you. As much as I loved Seattle, you won’t see that very often there.
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